Note: This article was automatically translated from Korean by AI. All content refers to South Korea unless otherwise stated. See Korean original for the most accurate reading.
When foreign friends visit Seoul, South Korea for the first time, I almost always steer them away from Gyeongbokgung Palace or Myeongdong and toward this instead. The Hanyangdoseong Trail (Seoul City Wall) — a loop around the old capital following fortress walls first built in 1396, the year the Joseon dynasty was founded. Tour buses don’t stop here, so almost no foreign visitors ever see it, and honestly, few Seoul residents have walked the whole thing either. Based on my own experience hiking all four sections, here’s where to start and how to walk it.
What Is Hanyangdoseong — Why a 600-Year-Old Wall Is Still Standing
Hanyangdoseong is the fortress wall completed in 1396 by King Taejo, founder of the Joseon dynasty, to defend the new capital of Hanyang (present-day Seoul). Its original full perimeter was about 18.6 km, completely encircling downtown Seoul. Large portions were demolished during Japanese colonial rule and modernization, but today roughly 70% still survives in original or restored form, linking four mountains: Bugaksan, Naksan, Namsan, and Inwangsan.
What’s fascinating is that as you walk, you can spot inscriptions carved directly into individual stones. Sections built under King Taejo bear the names of the regions that supplied the labor; sections repaired under Kings Sejong and Sukjong bear the names of the supervising officials. It’s essentially a 600-year-old version of putting the contractor’s name on the job.
The 4 Sections — Distance, Time, and Difficulty, Measured in Person
The trail is officially split into four sections: Baekak, Naksan, Namsan, and Inwang. Below are the figures from Seoul’s official Hanyangdoseong information center, alongside the time it actually took me to walk each one.
| Section | Route | Distance | Time | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baekak | Changuimun Gate ~ Hyehwamun Gate | 4.7 km | ~3 hours | Hard |
| Naksan | Hyehwamun Gate ~ Heunginjimun Gate (Gwanghuimun) | 2.1 km | ~1 hour | Easy |
| Namsan | Jangchung Gymnasium ~ Baekbeom Plaza | 4.2 km | ~3 hours | Hard |
| Inwang | Site of Donuimun Gate ~ Changuimun Gate | 4.0 km | ~2.5 hours | Hardest |
※ The four sections total roughly 15 km. The rest is flat connecting stretches around Sungnyemun and Heunginjimun gates; the full loop is listed at 18.6 km. (Source: Seoul Hanyangdoseong official guide, seoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr)
Where to Start — Recommendations by Subway Access
All four sections run through hilly terrain, so starting from the most transit-accessible point is good for your sanity. My recommended order is Naksan → Namsan → Inwang → Baekak — build momentum on the easier sections first, then save the two hardest, Inwang and Baekak, for last.
| Trail Entrance | Nearest Subway Station |
|---|---|
| Hyehwamun Gate (Naksan start) | Line 4, Hansung Univ. Station, Exit 5 |
| Heunginjimun Gate (Naksan end) | Lines 1/4, Dongdaemun Station, Exit 6 |
| Jangchung Gymnasium (Namsan start) | Line 3, Dongguk Univ. Station, Exit 6 |
| Site of Donuimun Gate (Inwang start) | Line 5, Seodaemun Station, Exit 4 |
| Changuimun Gate (Baekak/Inwang junction) | No subway station — transfer to a village bus from Line 3, Gyeongbokgung Station |
What I Learned Walking It — 3 Things Guidebooks Skip
Things I noticed walking each section myself that you won’t find in the guidebooks.
1. Bring ID for the Baekak section. Because it passes near the security zone around the Blue House (former presidential residence), access hours are restricted (typically 9 a.m. to 3–4 p.m., varying by season), and you may be asked to show a passport or ID. It’s safest to check the day’s opening status on the official Hanyangdoseong website before you go.
2. The Naksan section can be walked at night. It’s lit and stays open until 11 p.m. The night view is far more striking than the daytime one, so I’d recommend pairing it with the Ihwa-dong mural village for an evening route.
3. Inwang is, in practice, the hardest section. It’s officially rated “hardest,” but at only 4 km, everyone underestimates it. In reality, the steep staircases made it feel harder than Baekak to me. The view of Seoul from “Yun Dong-ju Poet’s Hill” near the summit makes the grind worth it.
Best Time to Go — By Season
My personal pick for the best time is late October to early November. Fallen leaves set against the stone walls, and lower humidity than summer makes the climb feel much easier. Spring (April) is beautiful with cherry blossoms, but the Inwang and Baekak sections get crowded on weekends. Summer isn’t recommended because of the humidity, and in winter you’ll want hiking boots since the stairs get slippery when it snows.
If you’re not confident in your stamina, there’s no need to force yourself through all four sections in one go. On my first attempt, I had to stop three times halfway up the Inwang section, gasping for breath. More than 500 ml of water, a light snack, and shoes that cover your ankles are enough preparation. What mattered more than gear was the mindset that it’s fine to give up partway — you can always come back next weekend.
How to Get a Completion Certificate — The Stamp Tour
The City of Seoul issues an official completion certificate to anyone who finishes all four sections. Here’s the process.
① Pick up a “Hanyangdoseong Stamp Map” at any section’s information center (such as the Hanyangdoseong Heritage Exhibition Hall in Hyehwa-dong).
② Collect a stamp at each of the four sections, taking a photo of yourself at each one as proof.
③ Apply for the certificate through the “Seoul Public Service Reservation” website, then bring your ID, stamp map, and photos to the Hyehwa-dong exhibition hall on your reserved date to receive the certificate.
Certificates are issued only once per quarter (Jan–Mar, Apr–Jun, Jul–Sep, Oct–Dec). I didn’t know about this process when I first walked the trail and just hiked it without collecting stamps — a bit of a regret in hindsight. I’d recommend grabbing the stamp map before you start walking.
FAQ
Q1. Can I walk all four sections in one day?
It’s possible, but it’s a grueling 8–10 hour effort. If it’s your first time, I’d recommend splitting it into two sections per day (e.g., Naksan + Namsan, or Inwang + Baekak).
Q2. Is there an entrance fee?
The trail itself is free. The N Seoul Tower observation deck on the Namsan section, however, charges separately.
Q3. Can I bring a pet?
Naksan, Namsan, and Inwang allow leashed pets, but the Baekak section is a security zone and prohibits pets.
Q4. Do I really need hiking boots?
Sneakers are fine for Naksan, but Baekak and Inwang have many stairs and steep sections — uncomfortable shoes will strain your knees.
In the end, the Hanyangdoseong Trail shows off Seoul, South Korea in a far more three-dimensional way than any photo of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Looking down from the mountains, there’s a moment when the Joseon-era fortress wall and 2026’s skyscrapers appear in the same frame — and to me, that’s the scene that best explains this city. If you’re staying in Seoul for more than a few days, I’d recommend spending at least one of them on this wall.
※ Distance and time figures in this article are based on the official Seoul Hanyangdoseong guide (seoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr). Opening hours and restricted zones can change by season and policy, so check the official site for the latest information before visiting.